Food & Beverage Buzz

I received a shipment of Buford's Floozy Sauce yesterday, which (of course) I immediately opened, popped the jar lid off and grabbed a spoon. Patience has never been one of my virtues...



The first taste to hit the tongue - sweet, then a bit tangy with a big bright citrus flavor. Next you get pepper and spice. On about the third spoonful, I remember thinking "This probably isn't really meant to be eaten straight from the jar." Again, not having the patience to wait for dinner, I put some on a cracker with goat cheese - a truly lovely pairing.



For dinner I did something very simple - baked chicken thighs, then basted with a healthy dollop of Buford's. Mmmm. With each bite you want to dredge it across the plate to get as much sauce as possible. It is sort of strangely addicting... And a quick and easy way to zing up your dinner!



They say it goes with anything and it's tasting like they might be right...



Buford's Floozy Sauce

By guest blogger Carolyn Horan.

The Second Annual Feast in the Field was held at Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth, RI on September 11, 2009.The feast is a celebration of local foods, wines and farms. The event was to raise funds for the farmers and farms in Rhode Island and southern New England. Rhode Island is first in the nation in going back to their farming roots.

According to an article by Talia Buford in the Providence Journal “ farms in Rhode Island that sell directly to the public earn about $25,270 annually in direct market sales alone, the third-highest sales in the country, according to the 2007 federal Census of Agriculture. That year, 249 farms — or about 20 percent — sold directly to the public, the highest percentage in the nation. Those farms raised $6.3 million worth of agricultural sales. The percent of the overall market attributed to direct market sales — 9.5 percent — is the highest in the nation.” There are 1,219 farms in Rhode Island.

The mission of The Rhode Island Center for Agriculture & Education (RICAPE) is and independent 501C3 non-profit corporation established on 2003 to promote and sustain agricultural activity, and inform and educate the next generation to be ready to assume jobs and careers in the agricultural and horticultural industries.

Locavores a new word for an old concept. The term was coined in 2006 by a San Francisco group interested in promoting local sustainable agriculture and raising consumer awareness of impacts of food choices. They advocate eating only, or primarily, food grown within a 100 mile radius of one's location.

Locavores is what feast in the field is all about. Coming back to how this country was founded. Each local area supporting itself. Of course in this day and age if you live 100 miles from the coast you might not like the idea of no lobsters or for us here in the east no wheat for a bread or pasta. Or heaven for bid no wine if there isn’t a winery with in 100 miles of your home.

The chefs from Newport Harbor Corp/Blackstone Caterers prepared the banquet using this philosophy. Just a quick aside about Newport Harbor Group, they are 50% employee owned and are now expanding more into the Providence restaurant scene with the purchase of Hemenway’s. Besides the local vineyards the farms provided the following; Aquidneck Farm the grass fed beef, Blackbird Farm in Smithfield the angus beef, Joe Paliotta from Johnston the goat meat, Matunuck the oyster and clams, Pippin Orchards in Cranston the apples, Shartner Farms the berries, Simmons Farm in Middletown the vegetables, Steve’s Organic in Bristol the heirlooms and vegetables, Sweet Berry Farm in Middletown the fruits and Wishing Stone Farm the honey and beets. The Artisans provided; Cheeses from Narragansett Creamery, corm meal from Kenyon’s Grist Mill, ice cream from Castle Hill, artisan breads from Bristol Bakery, Blackstone Catering services and details, Newport Storm beer and birch beer from the Yacht Club.

One thing for sure on that evening the weather was local. Torrential rain whipped the coast and made for treacherous driving and even more dangerous walking. Taking that in to consideration Greenvale provided a golf cart for the ride to the field and a huge tent for shelter. Everyone including Senator Sheldon Whitehouse and Mrs. John R Drexel, 111, a sponsor, braved the elements and the sold out affair was filled to capacity.

Smoked native bluefish pate crostini, Angus steak and cheese, Heirloom gazpacho crème fraiche, and three oyster varieties with three flavors on the half shell with appropriate wines was the reward for such diligence. All were served with Greenvale, Newport and Sakonnet wines.

After the start in the tent the guests made their way to the tasting room for a feast from the fields. And in this case from the sea. A delicious bowl of Aquidneck Island Seafood that included tautog, clams, scallop and grilled bread. That was served with and 07 Gewurtraminer from Sakonnet Vineyards. A perfect pairing, its delicate aromas blending with the fragrance of the seafood.

Goat meat, the most highly consumed meat in the world, is at the heart of the next course. It is lower in fat than chicken but higher in protein than beef. For those who find it too difficult to say goat meat there’s even a neologism, chevon, for a mature goat or capretto for a kid goat. We had two types of Smithfield Goat, one slow cooked and one fast cooked. The slow cooked goat had the texture of pulled pork and together with mushroom and spices filled a plump hand made ravioli. The fast cooked goat was difficult to eat. I am sure in a more casual setting picking it up and eating it would have been the right way to eat it. The flavor was mild, I expected it to be gamy but it wasn’t.

A 2007 Merlot from Newport Vineyards was served with the goat. A currant, raspberry, and blackberry essence with extended oak aging, and blended with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon added for extra complexity, did not overpower the mild taste of the goat.

Aquidneck Farms in Portsmouth provided grass fed beef for our next course.

There is a difference between the grass fed and corn fed beef, for some reason the grass feed beef tasted saltier to me. The grass fed beef is lower in saturated fats and higher in omega-3 fatty acids. All of the chemicals and antibiotics are taken out of the equation resulting in a healthier meat. Chimichurri(an Argentinean sauce, a mélange of olive oil, vinegar, finely chopped onion, parsley, oregano, and garlic all seasoned with salt, Cayenne and pepper) and corn meal apple polenta accompanied the beef. Cabernet Franc from Greenvale vineyards accented the savory flavor of the beef.

For dessert we enjoyed a Birch beer float; ice cream & Pistachio-olive oil cake, whipped ricotta, it was served with a fabulous 2006 Winter Wine from Sakonnet vineyards. A sweet ending to a Feast in the Field.

by guest blogger Carolyn Horan.

The Gilded Age of Newport is long over but the Mansions remain. They remain as a testament to the captains of industry in a pre-income tax world. Price was not as issue nor was amassing the best talent and materials from all over the world.

It was in one of these spectacular mansions, Rosecliff on Bellevue Avenue, that was the venue the for the First Annual Wine and Food Festival Gala. Rosecliff was completed in 1902 for Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs; architect Stanford White modeled the house after the Grand Trianon at Versailles. Mrs. Oelrichs became along with Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish and Mrs. O.H.P. Belmont one of the three greatest hostesses in Newport. The 40 by 80 ballroom it housed was built to be the largest one in Newport and boasted a two story ceiling... The most famous of Mrs. Oelrich’s parties was the “Bal blanc” of 19 August 1904 to celebrate the Astor Cup Races, in which everything was white and silver.

The Oelrichs family owned Rosecliff until 1941, and then went through several owners before being donated to the Preservation Society of Newport County by Mr. and Mrs. J. Edgar Moore of New Orleans. It was then opened up to the public for tours.

The music was provided by the Mac Chrupcala Orchestra, the great food was catered by Blackstone Caterers. The dinner wines were provided by Opici Imports and Castello Delle Regine. Round tables and gold chairs filled the ball room being sure to leave plenty of room for a dance floor. The only thing missing were the footmen.

The ballroom is a spatial sophisticated design that opens by use of French doors to a plain terrace dropping by broad stairs to the lawn facing east to the Atlantic Ocean. The design was meant to catch the sea breezes and keep the mansion cool during the heat of August.

Its scheme of single and paired Corinthian pilasters alternating with arch-headed windows and recessed doorways echoes the expression of the exterior. The trompe-l'oeil (fools the eye) ceiling of painted clouds is studded with crystal chandeliers. The color scheme was kept to a simple blue and cream.

Now it was once again time to get the jewels out of the vault, put on you designer dresses and suits, strap on your Jimmy Choos, and call the chauffer to bring the limo around and make your grand entrance into Newport Society.

Trudy Coxe, Chief Executive Officer, John Rodman, Director of Marketing Services,

Kevin Zraly, author and wine expert were sighted checking out the evening, making sure that everything was going well.

So many people who love Newport and look to city as a way of getting away from it all were there. This writer met a couple from Boston who were there because they wanted to take wine expert Kevin Zraly’s class. Mr. and Mrs. John Medeiros of Somerset, Massachusetts were there to celebrate their anniversary. Take your place on the Sweetheart Staircase and have your picture taken to commemorate the evening.

Walk around the room and peruse the items that were up for bid in a silent auction. A stunning silver plated wine cooler valued at $350.00, two bottles of wine from Francis Coppola, Black Label Merlot and Claret valued at an estimated $300.00 and three bottles of Pinot Grigio valued at $72.00 are some examples.

A global selection of wines was varied enough to please any oenophile. Our local vineyards were well represented. Sakonnet brought their Champagne, Greenvale Vineyards offered their Select Chardonnay and Newport Vineyards their Vintner Select Merlot. The Click Wine Group from Australia poured their Kangarilla Road McClaren Vale Zinfandel. From Chile came Carabantes of the Vina von Siebenthal Vineyards. Clos La Chance of France brought

Ruby Throated Cabernet. Those were just a few of the100 or so wines being poured.

An international cheese display with prosciutto, red and yellow roasted peppers, marinated mushrooms, along with rustic breads began our food odyssey. Enormous platters of colossal shrimp were passed with a wonderful spicy horseradish dip. Wood grilled vegetables and Kalamata olives, and fresh mozzarella all to whet the appetite while sipping the wines.

Dinner was choice of salmon or filet mignon with Béarnaise sauce. But that was only the beginning. Made to order risotto with shrimp, mushrooms, olives, tomatoes all topped with freshly grated parmesan. Next were made to order chowders. Choose from a creamy, tomato or clam broth; add to that clam, shrimp, scallops and/or potatoes. And last but not least, an array of desserts; Chocolate mini éclairs, miniature fruit tarts, crème Brule, marzipan petit fours, Napoleon’s and crème puffs.

The wines served with dinner were provided by Opici Imports and Castello delle Regine. The wine served with the main course was Podernovo from Umbria. It is from the Castello delle Regine Estates that is 900 acres in size. Nearly 300 acres are dedicated to vines, 7,000 olive trees are producing the finest olive oil. The Podernovo is a pure Sangiovese from the clonal selection of very old Sangiovese Grosso vines. The wine ages for one year in Slavonian oak and then partially in 60 gallon French barriques. It then lies in the bottle for 12 months. Podernovo is the color of rubies and has a full but balanced body with a long finish.

Now having dined on delicious food, danced to beautiful music, mingled with the upper crust, tasted fine wines, in one of the world most historic and stunning settings it is time to go. Being seen at the social event of the season has been accomplished. As everyone was leaving they received a goodie bag as a remembrance of the evening.

The next day the festival continued: Saturday Seminars, Kevin Zraly the one-hour wine expert, Cooking Demonstration; An Autumn Brunch by Roseann Tully, Publisher, Intermezzo Magazine, Sherry and Tapas, Steve Olson, the Wine Geek with Chef Steve Donovan, Plantation Catering, and Cooking demonstration with Chef Bogardus’s Parmesan Gnocchi with Fall Mushrooms and Moulard Duck, quite a selection.

The Grand Tasting began on Saturday September 30, 2006 on the grounds of the Marble House. The Marble House was built in 1892 at a cost of 11 million. At that time it was the most lavish house in America. Its mistress Alva Vanderbilt became the leading society hostess and later a leader of the “Votes for Women” Campaign.

On the grounds of the Marble House Alva Vanderbilt built a stunning Chinese Teahouse at the edge of Cliff Walk. The style of the teahouse was carefully researched and constructed by the sons of Richard Morris Hunt. Since there was no room for kitchens beneath the perched structure Alva ran small railroad to the main house to help the servants with the entertaining.

It was the kind of day that brought the wealthy to Newport in the first place, what we call in Newport a perfect blue and white day. The sky was blue, the surf was white and weather was magnificent. Over 100 wines from around the world were assembled along with food samplings and desserts from some of Newport best restaurants. To make the fantasy complete there was a luxuriously appointed baby Bentley parked out in front of the Tea House.

As this writer was wondering around the grounds of the Marble House I ended up in a tent sponsored by The Fireman’s Fund Insurance Company. They insure the mansion structures. As we talked and he learned why I was there he thought I might be interested in Vinfolio. At the beautiful Tea House, in back of the Marble House, Per Holmberg, a representative of Vinfolio one of the sponsors, was holding a private party for people interested in collecting fine wines. In order to amass a fine wine collection it takes time and money. Vinfolio is focused on the needs of the collector.

Per Holmberg is a very interesting man. Born in Sweden he was interested in all things epicurean and spent his youth working in restaurants during the school holidays.

In the mid 80’s his family moved to Paris and he became even more interested in food and wine.

In the 1990’s he moved to New York and followed his heart to the wine industry. He worked for the wine auction department at Morrell’s and later as a wine specialist for Christie’s auction house.

While at Christie’s he oversaw sale of legendary Doris Duke wine cellar and the Lenoir Josey sale. Per has appeared on television shows including CNBC’s Street Signs and Martha Stewart Living.

Vinfolio will manage your collection. Say you live in an apartment and have no room for a wine cellar nor do you have the knowledge that it take to keep a collection safe. Vinfolio will store, inventory, let you know when it is time to drink a certain wine and ship it directly to you. This is a little mentioned fact but in Hurricane Katrina millions of dollars worth of wine were lost.

Meanwhile back in the main tent, Stoelzle-oberglas leading manufacture of lead free crystal stemware provided the glasses that were used at the tasting. The company is over 200 years old and while it had its origins in Germany and Austria in now had six factories throughout Europe. They manufacture a glass for just about every type of wine and for that matter for beer and cocktails too. Michael A Schaefer, CWE director of sales was manning their booth.

At the Octagon, The Art of Steak, a restaurant from Groton, Connecticut booth Rosemary Brodeur, executive chef, was preparing a perfect filet mignon with Béarnaise sauce. Chef John Philcox, of Café Zelda prepared his signature dish, French Kisses, no not the kind you’re thinking of, Armagnac soaked prunes and foie gras. So Good. From Spain a luscious sherry, Noe Pedro Ximinez VORS, Ginsalez Byass. Tio Pepe as it is called is the color of pale straw and has an amazing complexity. The flavors come to you in layers. First tart, nutty, then layers of fruits, melons and even dried apricots. It can be served chilled and will exhibit a long, complex finish. The quality of the sherry is constant making it the best selling sherry in the world.

Again that was only a sampling of the food and wine. At least six more Newport Restaurants participated as did the wineries and The Preservation Gift Shop.

At the end of the tasting guest auctioneer Kevin Zraly led a lively auction of fabulous items: A catered party for 24 at The Elms including wine and flowers donated by The Preservation Society of Newport, estimated value $12,000; a redwood wine rack for 140 bottles with space for bins and individual bottles donated by Fred Tregakis of New England Wine Cellars with an estimated value of $1,200; a three liter 2003 Caymus Special Selection donated by Chuck Wagner estimated value of $600 just to name a few.

After the auction sparkling wines were poured and desserts were provided by Johnson and Wales University’s College of Culinary Arts. A perfect end to a perfect week-end.

The whole weekend was a spectacular success. It was completely sold out. Andrea Carneiro, Communications Manager of the Preservation Society of Newport County told me they are now looking forward to The Second Annual Wine and Food Festival. Obviously the Festival has attracted people from all over the world turning this in to a world class event. Darling, anything less would have been devastating.

I love yogurt. Really, I do. Plain yogurt, no sweeteners, no fruit, just good, tart yogurty goodness. I eat it alone and make dips, dressing and soups with it. And there is a huge difference between all the brands. Some are thin and watery, some tart, some bland. I prefer mine to be thick, creamy and have a true dairy flavor with a pronounced yogurt tartness.



I was intrigued when I spotted Saint Benoît at Berkeley Bowl (a fabulous grocery store) , it grabbed my attention right away. Potted in an old fashioned crock-type pot it is visually attractive, and yet the price is still not at all outrageous, especially given the packaging. In flavors such as honey, lemon, strawberry, boysenberry & plum, they were all enticing. But again, I am a plain yogurt loving girl. I found a UPC tag for plain, but alas, a thorough search turned up none. The helpful dairy guy behind the case even noticed my search and looked himself, to no avail. I couldn't give up on Saint Benoît though, so snagged a honey crock. I was thrilled when, upon walking away, the diary man called out from the back that he had found a plain yogurt (score!) OK, I already had the honey in the cart, so I took them both...



Not a low or nonfat yogurt, the Saint Benoît is beautiful - creamy and rich, with that little creamy layer on the top - total decadence. I love topping yogurt with nuts, berries, fruit, even seasoning, however so far, all I have been able to do is just eat it - all by itself....



Their website says that, "Saint Benoît Yogurt is a natural product from Sonoma county, California. Our organic yogurts are handcrafted in small batches. Their unique, smooth, creamy flavor begins with the wholesome Jersey milk we use." Whatever they are doing, it is working. I can't wait to try the honey....

OK, it's an unappetizing name, slug slime. According to producer's website (Los Bagels of Arcata, CA) it is "A savory sprinkle for soups, salads, sandwiches, eggs, or whatever you can think of." Los Bagels says that "For years, savvy customers have asked for a sprinkle of "slug slime" from the bagel case. It's just the toppings that fall off the slugs- onion, garlic, salt, sesame seeds & poppy seeds. Well, after 23 years we got the brilliant idea to bottle it. DUH!"



It's a good thing, because it is yummy... and addicting. OK- I admit it, I have been known to just stand and eat little handfuls right from the bottle. Salty, savory, nutty tasting, it is a bit addictive. I don't just eat it from the bottle though, I have garnished homemade smoked trout spread, and added it to blue cheese cole slaw, and tried with on a baguette with a double cream brie.



You what else I really appreciate about it? It retails for $3.25 a bottle - for a large 5.25 ounce jar. Refreshing compared to some of the "gourmet" accoutrements available out there that may be tasty, but leave you feeling gouged. Go Los Bagels! (And did I mention their addicting lemon cookies?)